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Tunnel Vision - Reflections on Ground-Up Development
Three metres of blank rock above. I reached over and detached the drill-bit from the drill, tucking it into my pocket. I'd discovered that it feels easier to commit to a crux without visions of falling and being impaled by the drill. Pulling onto the dirty crimps again reminded me of the weight of the bolt kit. It had been a couple hours of zig-zagging up this 30 metre headwall. Digging out small cam placements, and trying to save on the handful of bolts clipped to my harness
Owyn Aitken
May 243 min read


Sinbad Gully
In February, Peter Le and I went for a mission into the famed Sinbad Gully. Tucked away near Lawrenny Peaks and across Milford Sound, it doesn’t see much traffic on account of the long approach. Having frothed over Climber magazine articles of the place, it was epic to get finally get in there and have a play! Looking up at the steep wall Getting there (and back): Step one is to get across the sound. If you’ve got some kind of water craft in your possession, whether it be a k
Isaac Muller-Wild
May 103 min read


A Guide to Climbing in Tasmania
Over the past summer, I spent some time in Fiordland. Over the course of the inevitable rainy days in Homer Hut, the question of where I lived would pop up. I’d mention Tasmania and then proceed to talk their ears off about how good the rock climbing was there until they politely excused themselves once they got sick of my psych. Okay, maybe not quite. But close. What stuck with me from those conversations was the number of strange ideas people had about Tasmania. One person
Imogen Potts
Apr 255 min read


Learning lessons on the Goretta Pillar – failing is the best inspiration
Decision time. We all knew this moment was coming. Jacob, Pet and I had all been thinking about it as we pushed on, far behind schedule. Now we finally stopped at a belay to make a plan. We had just joined the main line of the Casorotto route on the Goretta Pillar of Fitzroy. Above us soared a tower of golden granite and splitter cracks, glowing in the evening sun. The climbing looked absolutely delightful. The weather was perfect, the views incredible. THIS is what we had co
Tanja de Wilde
Mar 277 min read


Butterfly Effect, A new route on Mt Chaos
Back in March of 2025, during our ascent of 'Gods of Chaos', Jacob Kuchler and I stumbled upon what we believe to be some of the highest quality alpine schist in New Zealand. At the time we noted an extraordinary golden buttress down below us which was screaming out to be climbed. A month later, I managed to wrangle Liam Pyott into joining me on the first exploratory look at this new buttress. What stood out was a significant chimney system at about a third height. Separatin
Mason Gardener
Mar 243 min read


Summer in the Darrans
The Darrans is an epicenter of alpine rock climbing, boasting amazing granite faces in arguably New Zealand’s best backdrop, providing everything for a successful summer. As I (Reon) was descending from Mt Chaos on a trip prior, our inreach pinged with a message from Dan, “Tell Reon, Imogen is in Milford with food and gear to climb tomorrow on Charismatic Wall”, well there goes my rest day… As I arrived at Homer Hut, a quick introduction with Imogen and pack had us heading up
Reon Morrison
Feb 186 min read


NZAT 2026 Intake Weekend
This year, the NZAT took a different approach to selecting the new intake of mentees. Plan A was for a weekend of climbing in the Darrans, but with a wet forecast looming, the decision was made to shift to Lake Hope in the Remarkables and focus on route development instead. By Thursday afternoon, the five prospective mentees- Owyn, Reon, Isaac, Tim and myself (Imogen) - were excited. We were joined by Dan, Llewellyn, Lionel, Mason and Henry. Our bags were packed with drills,
Imogen Potts
Feb 105 min read


Dunedin Rock: compiling the classics into one list
Dunedin has grown many great New Zealand alpinists. The Otago University Tramping Club is a key part of this, often launching keen...
Maddy Whittaker
Sep 10, 20234 min read


New Year on the Kaipo.
Back in January 2022, Jonty Francis and I had an aspirational conversation about climbing in the Darrans; “There's just so much to do...
James Hobson
Mar 21, 20237 min read


Wild Dykes: Ground up adventure climbing on the Charismatic Wall Fiordland
Falling backwards head first. Never a good situation to find yourself in. My helmet splits as my head slams into solid granite. My...
nzalpineteam
Feb 26, 20226 min read


The Dreamliner Airport Wall Milford Sound
Free at last, free at last. I could sense James summoning the words of Martin Luther king as he dreamed of finally leaving the hanging...
nzalpineteam
May 8, 20216 min read


Big Wall Training Trip 2021
Yosemite here we come. Yosemite was the second of the NZ Alpine Team's training trips, the first being Canadian Rockies in 2020. Well,...
nzalpineteam
Apr 11, 202111 min read


Mile High Club, Airport Wall, Milford Sound
Short approach, many pitches, interesting and challenging climbing. Personally when it came to climbing in NZ I had always hoped I could...
nzalpineteam
Nov 8, 202017 min read


Copper Point New Route – Straight outta lock down
Over two trips to Copper Point in Fiordland Merry and Daniel established a great new crack climb. Straight out of lock down is 175m long...
nzalpineteam
May 29, 20201 min read


Free Rider El Capitan Trip Report and Beta
In 2018 I was standing around on top of El Capitan with Jon Seddon a fellow Kiwi and my climbing partner for that particular trip. It was...
nzalpineteam
Nov 29, 20196 min read


Climbing Dasler Pinnacles – Hopkins Valley
Ben Mangan, Lionel Clay, James Hobson With the freezing level rapidly rising all over the Southern Alps - it was time to grab the...
nzalpineteam
Nov 7, 20192 min read
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