Summer in the Darrans

The Darrans is an epicenter of alpine rock climbing, boasting amazing granite faces in arguably New Zealand’s best backdrop, providing everything for a successful summer.

As I (Reon) was descending from Mt Chaos on a trip prior, our inreach pinged with a message from Dan, “Tell Reon, Imogen is in Milford with food and gear to climb tomorrow on Charismatic Wall”, well there goes my rest day… As I arrived at Homer Hut, a quick introduction with Imogen and pack had us heading up to Charismatic Wall to start our 3-week climbing summer.

19^th January – 21^st January Wild Dykes Charismatic Wall

An afternoon approach and climb left us at the lower bivvy ledge on Charismatic wall, dinner and cups of tea on repeat as we stared up to the headwall of Wild Dykes. It was our first time on this wall and first time climbing together, with a high level of stoke and excitement for the days ahead. We were both trialing for the team in the upcoming trials, so getting as much climbing in together would build a stronger bond for bigger trips to come.

Reon seconding the approach pitches on Charismatic Wall

Fixing the first two pitches on arrival meant we could start early and progress onto the upper bivvy ledge more efficiently with time for the upper head wall. Arriving at the upper bivvy ledge, we climbed with extra food and bivvy kit to have a leisurely climb as we both agreed we should pace ourselves for the 3 weeks as it was also leading into trials. This did not happen, as when we arrived and had a quick coffee brew, we climbed 2 pitches that lead into 4 which carried on into 12, positioning us at the crux pitch with a so far free ascent. Running low on food and waiting out the sun, we were joined by Peter and Aidian who dumped their pack weight into our stomachs, giving us the extra boost to the top. Topping out as a party of 4 on a beautiful sunset was a grand way to top out the route. As we arrived back to the bivvy ledge we couldn’t not enjoy the backdrop of the amazing wall and spent another night watching the stars and aurora dance above us.

Reon leading up Wild Dykes

22^nd January – 24^th January

The next couple days were provided by a taunting weather forecast, so our eyes were set on cragging, rainy walks, and carb loading, a lot of carb loading.

25^th January – 26^th January Uprising Charismatic Wall 

The wall was so good that we had to do it twice, this time on Uprising. Enjoying the same leisurely evening approach and climb we positioned ourselves at the bivvy ledge below the route, with plenty of time to soak in the views and be soaked by the mist that continued from the past couple days. Slow start accelerated by coffee got us up the route to the Houdini corner crux pitch as the day started to warm up. A dry pitch and blasting techno got us up the pitch with no falls and quick progress to the remainder of the route. As we approached the final pitches, my stoke was higher than ever and so was Imogen’s, leading to us dancing up the last pitches with big smiles. A quick phone check and we saw team members Dan and James heading up Sabre tomorrow and we couldn’t resist the temptation. Once we got back to the hut Dan was so excited to see us, he even got up to chat with us, I’m sure it wasn’t us waking him up…

Topping out on Uprising, smiles all round

27^th January West Ridge Sabre Peak

4am wake ups after 4 hours of sleep means we have a brilliant excuse for our coffee addiction after the last couple days. A quick pace up to Gertrude saddle for first light was met by the harsh morning anabatic winds which cleared off into an amazing still day. We made quick progress of the traverse to Marian Peak on one of the best ridgelines scrambles we’ve all done. A few abseils later and we were positioned on the south side of the west ridge of Sabre, with a crux mossy buttress to ascend. A couple exciting leads later and we crested the ridge with an hour of scrambling left to the top, but a strict turnaround time for a doctor’s appointment cut our summit short. On the descent we put two rap anchors on the ridges crest, making for a cleaner and safer descent than the variety of tat anchors. The scramble back was nothing more than fun and making quick progress we were able to be back to the hut before sunset and in time for dinner.

Imogen and Dan looking onto Marian Pk South Face

30^th January – 31^st January North Face Barrier Knob

After some more less desirable weather windows, we had our sights on Barrier Knob and the north face we heard so highly of. A walk in and climb saw us up Labyrinth on the first day which had some of the best climbing we’ve ever experienced. The bolt spacing was bold as for the original ascent was done on sky hooks and hand drills, showing how far route development safety has come with lighter and faster power drills. We ended the day early with a sun soaking biv and overlooking the Central Darrans, pondering what is still out there.

Imogen seconding the first pitch of Labyrinth

Imogen getting some well deserved rest in the sun

The second day saw us up Rita’s Burritos for some more bold runout climbing on beautifully textured granite. As much as our bodies were capable, our minds were challenged and we made the decision to bail on route due to the runout nature and high risk of a serious injury if we fell, which built on Imogen’s and I climbing partnership we’ve built over the last couple weeks. Some techno and singing saw us descending to the hut in time for afternoon tea. If anyone is to climb routes on this face, be aware that the first pitch likely exceeds the original pitch length by 10m due to glacial recession.

Dreamy bivvy site at the base of Barrier Knob North Face

Over the next 5 days leading up to trials weekend, we took some time off from the big trips, going for some cragging, less committing alpine routes and a side of route development.

14^th February – 15^th February Dreamliner Airport Wall  

With a sub-par weather window leading into a flight to Tasmania for Imogen on the 17^th , we needed a final fix and a jaunt up Airport Wall. Packing your bags in the carpark with a million sand flies meant we were eager to leave and start the walk in, which was wet, very wet. Usually when the rain stops and the forecast says it will clear you can be reasonably confident on a dry biv, but as we approached the wall under the drip line meant we arrived at a bivvy site under a waterfall. This is where we realised an eager pack meant we forgot the tarp, but to our luck Airport wall tenants had stashed a tarp for us to use which came in very handy.

A very wet sleep under the drip line at Buissness Premier biv

An aiding endeavor by Imogen up the waterfall 27 pitch had us at the start of the remaining dry-ish pitches with the sun starting to dry them out further. As we climbed into the fourth pitch, we realised that conditions and a fatigued mental headspace were leaving us in a very difficult situation of struggling to even get up the route. So as the sun got stronger, we made the difficult decision to bail and enjoy the pools on the way out… agh sunbathing and swims.

Dreamliner and the spectacular backdrop it provides

It's amazing how you can go from strangers to a strong climbing partnership that has shared a climbing season this amazing. Darrans, Imogen, and the team, thank you for the times we share, and we're excited to be apart of this amazing whānau.