Decision time. We all knew this moment was coming. Jacob, Pet and I had all been thinking about it as we pushed on, far behind schedule. Now we finally stopped at a belay to make a plan. We had just joined the main line of the Casorotto route on the Goretta Pillar of Fitzroy. Above us soared a tower of golden granite and splitter cracks, glowing in the evening sun. The climbing looked absolutely delightful. The weather was perfect, the views incredible. THIS is what we had co

When multipitch climbing, having the ability to carry food and extra layers is a significant factor to an enjoyable send or a suffer fest, but so is the importance and approach to carrying them. Different systems will be amazing in one application, but inefficient and slow in another. Identifying your situation of use is important to determining what style is appropriate for your climb. Using the Big Wall grading system, each system has an ideal application Grade I–III: Half

A current guide 19/03/2023 In his book ‘Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers’, Rob Frost expresses to the reader that the...

Back in January 2022, Jonty Francis and I had an aspirational conversation about climbing in the Darrans; “There's just so much to do...

The weather window presented itself: a good clearance from Thursday to Sunday in mid September. I had been playing tour guide for my...

The goal of a “Round” is to climb all of the most prominents peaks in a mountain range, starting & finishing in the same place. The idea...

To be one with the chief, you must walk with the chief, eat with the chief and sleep with the chief. Mount Tutoko was likely named after...

Jagged-Upham Couloir is an awesome little ice and mixed gully in the Arrowsmith Range within weekend striking distance of Christchurch....

Tititea – Mt Aspiring. Probably the winner for my favourite mountain in New Zealand. Or contender for favourite journey – the idyllic walk up the Matukituki, French Ridge Hut perched high above the river, and the somewhat lonesome beauty of the peak itself, presiding above the expanse of the Bonar. I’d taken advantage of the relative quiet of 2020 to be up the peak twice, by the Southwest and Northwest ridges. Each time, I’d looked over from the Bonar neve at the South Face

Can we actually foot launch our paragliders off Aoraki from the High peak? It’s been on my mind for 10 years after seeing a photo of my...

Every mountainous region has its list of highest peaks. The British Munros. The 4000m peaks of the European Alps. The Himalayan 8000ers....

The Olivines our quintessential heartland of New Zealand transalpine adventures, few are there among us that aren't inspired by the...

I could sense rather than see the face above me as I stumbled through the snow-covered moraine. A presence that loomed out beyond the...

The guidebook raves that the South Face of Douglas Peak is one of New Zealand's great ice climbs. We too can attest this is a classic ice route on a beautiful peak. Based out of Pioneer Hut, you’ll see that Douglas Peak is the second most commanding peak in the Fox Glacier area besides the mighty Tasman-Horokoau. As you approach the face the structure of the mountain emerges and it is clear this is a perfect peak for alpine climbing. Access Pioneer hut is a tough 1.5-2 day ap

“Many Canterbury men know that a tough trans-alpine crossing can be a harder test of competence in unorthodox travel and stubborn...

It seemed like the first reasonable break in the weather for weeks. I’d like to call the response an orderly mobilisation of the troops,...

More like the Learning Curver ! Lighter packs and a better looking weather window had myself and Lionel walking up the Hooker for the...

Accompanied by Elliot and Luke doing all sorts of things I would never have guessed you could (or should) do in a stock standard Grand...

The great virus of 2020 dealt a sweeping blow to anyone planning an overseas expedition. With our plans to travel to the Himalaya...

The lead up to the Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival is always an intensely satisfying, full on week for the NZAT. Day after day we head...