Multipitch Bags - Reviewing Different Approaches and Applications

When multipitch climbing, having the ability to carry food and extra layers is a significant factor to an enjoyable send or a suffer fest, but so is the importance and approach to carrying them. Different systems will be amazing in one application, but inefficient and slow in another. Identifying your situation of use is important to determining what style is appropriate for your climb.

Using the Big Wall grading system, each system has an ideal application

• Grade I–III: Half a day to most of a day, mostly for smaller, single-to-multi-pitch routes.

• Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, often 5.7 or harder.

• Grade V: Usually requires at least one overnight on the wall.

• Grade VI: Two or more days of hard technical climbing.

• Grade VII: Remote, big walls requiring alpine style, extreme conditions, and no possibility of rescue

The Pocket – 0.5L

Use: Grade I-II

This approach to storage has been quite popular and appropriate on short multi pitches, such as climbs where you are usually down in time for lunch and able to bail quickly in emergencies. Apart from climbs under 3 pitches, I find this system quite irrelevant as you sacrifice storage space and safety for a small bag alternative such as a chalk bag style pouch. Another thing to consider is that pockets, zippers or not, have a common issue with dropping phones and nut bars, so keep that in mind unless you want a hangry belayer.

Pros

-          Sleek to climb with

-          Easily accessible

Cons

-          Limited storage space

-          Inability to carry emergency food/gear

-          Depending on pocket, stuff may fall out

-          Water stored separate

Chalk Bag Style Pouch – 1L

Use: Grade I-IV

Chalk bag style pouches are becoming more popular with the rise of brands like Avant making them mainstream products (Macpac has a similar product). I use a old stuff sack for a harness that can clip onto my gear loop out of the way while climbing. I’ve been able to do full day ascents of routes, carrying enough bars and food, a headtorch, zinc, and finger tape for the day. It is limited to not carrying layers so having something like the Pisa on the harness gives me enough wiggle room for early starts or late descents. One issue I found with this option is the inability to carry a full or even partial first aid kit so on routes where bailing is challenging or there is potential for injury I would reconsider my approach.

Pros

-          Sleek to climb with while adding more storage space

-          Easily accessible

-          Space for small first aid/extras (ie. Sunscreen, finger tape…)

Cons

-          Limited space for extra layers

-          Not enough space for full sized meal

-          Maybe confused with chalk bag

-          Water stored separate

My DIY snack bag, fits ~1500 calories with space for other items

Running Vest – 10L

Use: Grade I-IV

The running vest has become one of the most popular go to options for multipitchs. It's sleek design makes it comfortable to climb with while having enough space to carry a insulation layer, rain layer, extra food, and emergency gear. I've found myself using this one on longer alpine routes where weather is variable and water is accessible on route. The Macpac Amp Ultra 10L pack has been many of the team's go-to option when using running vests. One design feature to consider is that having soft flasks in the front vest can sometimes leak and getting a face full of water.

Pros

-          Space for layers, food, emergency gear, and water for the day

-          Can climb without limiting movement

-          Leader and seconder can both carry running vests to share the load equally. Both climbers can eat and stay hydrated at any point

Cons

-          Water bottle on the front of vest can have issue of spraying you

-          Increased weight so may make crux pitches slightly harder

Owyn leading with the Macpac Amp 10L

Small Climbing Pack – 20L

Use: Grade IV-V

Using a small pack is quite a popular option for winter routes where extra layers and safety items are essential. In rock multi pitch situations this is quite common approach for routes that require one night on the wall or long walk off descents rather than raps. Having a heavy pack for the seconder does put them in a more challenging situation when it comes to swinging leads, as they maybe more fatigued than planned.

Pros

-          Can carry enough kit for a shiver biv or longer ascents

-          Plenty of layers and spare food/water

-          Small enough to climb with on easier pitches

-          Day gear still somewhat accessible

Cons

-          Can affect climbing performance significantly

-          May require hauling on challenging terrain (pack durability?)

Tanja seconding with a 20L variant of the Macpac Pursuit

Large Climbing Pack – 30L+

Use: Grade IV-VI, can be used in situations where the seconder is jumaring and the leader sending

Using a 30L pack or larger is quite common for isolated routes where a walk of descent is as committing as the climb, requiring more safety equipment. Where a climbing pack comes in handy is the comfort for longer approaches and walk off descents, as well as being more enjoyable to climb with than a haul bag. I do find myself in situations though of using a smaller pack for each climber and splitting the weight that way, but all have their limitations and advantages.

Pros

-          Plenty of space for comfortable bivvys

-          Allows for multiple day ascents with approaches and walk off descents

-          Comfortable for long approaches

Cons

-          Climbing performance dramatically decreases

-          Hauling maybe required on a lot of moderate terrain (dependant on pack durability)

-          Day gear maybe less accessible if packed into the main pack compartment

Macpac NZAT 40L Pursuit in it's natural habitat

Haul Bag – 50L+

Use: Grade V+

The haul bag speaks for itself, allowing a climbing party to comfortably live on a wall for multiple days. In New Zealand there are limited uses but I've found it quite enjoyable to have on route development. Where used and packed with a lot of gear, the bag can become quite uncomfortable for long durations, thus requiring a happy balance between approach comfort and on wall efficiency.

Pros

-          Allows you to get as much kit up the wall as necessary

-          Doesn’t require a climber to climb with gear

-          Comfort at bivvys not sacrificed (most times)

Cons

-          Requires hauling

-          Uncomfortable for long approaches

-          Accessing day gear can be challenging

-          Likely requires a day bag alongside for day gear and water

Tanja on the approach to Charismatic Wall

All these systems can be used in conjunction with each other such as a running vest with the seconder carrying a small day pack. The approach's written are from personal experiences and what has worked for me. There is no rule book saying what is right or wrong in this situation, so get creative and find what works for you. See you on the rock!