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New Route on the South-East Face of Ferintosh Peak
For me one of the great most rewarding aspects of alpine climbing in New Zealand is the vast range of objectives that we have on hand at...
nzalpineteam
Jul 27, 20143 min read


2014 Darrans Winter Meet
The first twinkle of hoar frost came just at the entrance to the Eglinton. The full moon lit the peaks with a silvery glow of snow on the...
nzalpineteam
Jul 22, 20145 min read


How to descend safely by abseiling.
It surprises me how few mountain climbers understand or know a safe and simple method to abseil down a climb leaving minimal gear....
nzalpineteam
Jul 20, 20147 min read


South Ridge Aiguille Noire de Peuterey
Advice & Beta If the route is completely dry it would be possible to simply go with running shoes, no crampons or ice axe would be...
nzalpineteam
Jul 19, 20141 min read


Big Boys Don’t Cry: An emotional summit day on Mt Kckinley
Tears welled up in my eyes. With each step I choked them back. 50m from the summit several escaped and with no one nearby I simply let them go. The day was stunning, three sixty degree views, stretching out past Mt's Hunter and Foraker over the tundra towards the sea. I had never cried upon reaching a summit before but something that day was unique and special. Our expedition was made up of two teams. Steve Fortune, Matthew Scholes & myself along with two young climbers
nzalpineteam
Jul 8, 20144 min read


Petit Dru South Face, Chamonix Mt Blanc
Petit Dru South Face Ordinary Route Approach and Route Beta The approach to the South Face of the Petit and Grand Drus is best made from...
nzalpineteam
Jul 6, 20142 min read


Expedition Capital Fund
Expedition Capital Fund Aim To build up a substantial sum of capital that generates enough income to fully fund one major New Zealand led...
nzalpineteam
Jul 5, 20142 min read


First Ascent of the West Face of Lyttle Peak
Three of our other options for our biennial brothers trip had been abandoned due to weather or conditions. An idea which had been mooted,...
nzalpineteam
Apr 14, 20144 min read


Weta Prowl, Steeple Peak
A contender for the worst rock in the Alps would have to be Mt Huxley, which sits at head of the Ahuriri River with the Chosspile Peaks...
nzalpineteam
Apr 7, 20145 min read


New Route on Barrier Peak S. Face. First in 36 years.
Cyclone Luci was making her way south across the Pacific, bearing down on the north island and due to hit land on Saturday. I too was...
nzalpineteam
Mar 20, 20144 min read


South Face East Twin Second Ascent
Queenstown is the ideal location to live as a climber in NZ. Close enough to all the major South Island alpine climbing destinations it...
nzalpineteam
Mar 10, 20143 min read


The Central Darrans
I’d been wanting to go into the Central Darrans for years. Ever since I stood on the top of Barrier Knob – a Darrans neophyte on my way...
nzalpineteam
Mar 7, 20144 min read


One month in Fiordland
One night, sitting around the fire in the Warden’s Quarters at Homer Hut and listening to the heavy rain that signaled the end of the...
nzalpineteam
Mar 6, 20149 min read


The Climbing Space!
The Climbing Space! To succeed in Patagonia, you must take a chance, you can't just sit waiting, your head bowed and cast. Don't get in a...
nzalpineteam
Mar 6, 20143 min read


First ascent: Somnus North-East Buttress Solo
North-East Buttress, 700m, 15/16, first ascent. Something really struck home with me while reading an article by Jane Morris in the...
nzalpineteam
Feb 17, 20143 min read


BMC Winter Meet
The BMC International meet is held every winter. It’s a fantastic event bringing together climbers of all abilities from around the world...
nzalpineteam
Feb 13, 20144 min read


New Route on the South Face of Marian.
Mater Dei, 1000m, 20, first ascent. Trip report and video from the ascent. Its not often I find myself checking the weather forecast for...
nzalpineteam
Feb 9, 20144 min read


South Face of Nazomi – New Route
The spring of 2013 will not be remembered for its sustained periods of settled weather. Instead much like the winter that preceded it, it...
nzalpineteam
Feb 4, 20144 min read


How to Bivvy. Planned and Unplanned!
In fine weather a unplanned or a planned bivvy generally involves little suffering. Fine weather can also be very forgiving when it comes...
nzalpineteam
Jan 19, 20147 min read
Fil A Plomb Chamonix
#ExpeditionReports
nzalpineteam
Jan 17, 20141 min read
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