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Arthurs Pass Ice
The words Arthurs Pass and ice are two words most climbers never use in the same sentence. The fact of the matter is, ice routes do exist in the Arthurs Pass area. These routes are often not in the form of semi- transparent blue pillars with easy approaches but instead may be mixed with rock, turf and may be difficult to access. Some climbers often slag off climbing around Arthurs Pass, but the benefits gained from a backyard of Arthurs climbing can quickly silence the staunc
nzalpineteam
Dec 24, 20164 min read


Macpac Prophet Jacket
After doing the maths on my trusty old Macpac Paclite jacket and realizing there were more patches than actual jacket, I knew the time had come for a new one. I've always had good performance out of Macpac jackets in the past and the Macpac Lightweight Prophet AP Rain Jacket didn't disappoint. A jacket is one of the most important pieces of clothing for any climber or mountaineer so it's important to get a reliable one which performs well. When purchasing lightweight gear, it
nzalpineteam
Dec 11, 20163 min read


A New Route on the South-West Buttress of Bruce Peak
We did not rate our chances of success as we fought our way up the South Temple in heavy rain. The river was flooded, making the track...
nzalpineteam
Nov 17, 20162 min read


Tears of Papatuanuku (East Face of Mt Talbot)
I'd done several of the classic rock routes up on Moirs and on the back of Barrier Knob over the past summer months but I'm ashamed to...
nzalpineteam
Nov 7, 20164 min read


Macpac Fitzroy Soft Shell Pants Review
The Fitzroy is Macpac’s premier soft shell pant which combines breathable stretch and high water resistant materials that make a...
nzalpineteam
Nov 7, 20163 min read


Alpine training in Australia
While there may be a lacking of high mountains or ice and mixed climbing, with some imagination, there is no shortage of opportunities to train the mind and body for alpine climbing in Australia. I will recount three recent training missions in Australia – an 850m climbing link-up in the Grose Valley, alpine rock climbing in the Warrumbungles, and a 90km run traversing three of the highest and most remote peaks in the Blue Mountains. Pierces Pass Triple In the Grose Valley of
nzalpineteam
Oct 21, 20168 min read


South Face Mt Hicks – Curver
A trip up the Hooker Glacier to Empress Hut is one of the must do Kiwi alpine experiences for any visiting or local mountaineer. When I...
nzalpineteam
Sep 12, 20164 min read


NZAT Ice Training Camp
As part of our training for the up and coming team trip to Canada, the team spent the weekend prior to the Remarkables Ice and Mixed...
nzalpineteam
Sep 5, 20164 min read


Remarkables Ice & Mixed Festival 2016
Now in its fifth year running, the Remarkables Ice & Mixed Festival is becoming a must-attend event on the NZ climbing calendar! Climbers...
nzalpineteam
Aug 31, 20167 min read


Choosing the right climbing rope
There is no rope that does every job. Therefore when building your selection of climbing ropes here are a few points to consider. As an...
nzalpineteam
Jul 22, 20163 min read


Peru Expedition 27 May – 30 June 2016
Menu Trip Summary and Four New Routes on Taulliraju Photo Album About the Expedition Itinerary Costs Packing List Sponsors List Press...
nzalpineteam
May 25, 201622 min read


Press Release: NZAT Peru Expedition 2016
Departing on the 27th May, the Expedition Climbers' Club (ECC) 2016 Peru Expedition will be the largest international climbing trip to leave New Zealand in the last 40 years. The expedition will be based in Peru's Cordillera Blanca mountain range, with members of the 12 person group attempting to climb a variety of unclimbed routes on the many 5000 and 6000m peaks in the area. The expedition is also the pinnacle of the ECC's 3-year elite youth development program; the New Z
nzalpineteam
May 18, 20162 min read


Ozymandias Direct – Mt Buffalo
It all started at the ‘Death Stairs’, a flight of 250 steps above Coogee beach, Sydney. The endorphins were obviously running rampant after those sweaty laps, because when I asked Michael Mate whether he wanted to join me for an ascent of the infamous big wall aid climb Ozymandias at Mt Buffalo, he said yes straight away. A wise decision on his part Time would tell. But I was stoked. Michael was an ideal partner for this climb – not only because he owned a crucial three sets
nzalpineteam
Apr 6, 20168 min read


Super Couloir Direct Mt Blanc du Tacul Beta
Climbing the Super Couloir on Mt Blanc du Tacul via its classic direct start is a must do climb for many alpinists visiting the Chamonix valley. Equipment 4 - 6 ice screws 8 quick draws Camalots .3 - 2 with doubles on .5 - 1 Nuts 1 – 7 2 x 60m ropes The climbing ranges from M6 – WI4. The crux of the route is the first two pitches. Depending on the conditions in the actual couloir you can also expect to find a couple of steep ice pitches higher up. When we climbed the route
nzalpineteam
Mar 1, 20162 min read


North Buttress of Sabre, Standard Route
You should have a crack at Sabre if you want something tough. By god, there's a mountain for you! G Hall-Jones to M Gill, c.a. 1958 In...
nzalpineteam
Feb 16, 20165 min read


Aiguille Sans Nom North Face Direct linking to Gabarrou Silvy
Aiguille Sans Nom Direct linking to Gabarrou Silvy The North Face of the Aiguille Sans Nom is one of the classic big faces of the...
nzalpineteam
Feb 1, 20162 min read


The Carrington Rouse
The Carrington Rouse (originally known as the Rebuffet Terray) is a classic ice and mixed climb on the Aiguille Des Pelerins in the...
nzalpineteam
Jan 31, 20162 min read


The Progeny: A First Ascent of the West Ridge of Percy Smith
From what is admittedly a very limited amount of experience, there's one thing about first ascents which stands out to me. Perhaps I do...
nzalpineteam
Jan 18, 20164 min read


Summer Alpine Climbing – Aspiring, Douglas & Aoraki
Late spring and early summer often produce fine snow & ice conditions for mountaineering routes on our great peaks. Since the recent...
nzalpineteam
Jan 13, 20165 min read


Aoraki South Face – Grand Traverse and Tasman Syme-Silberhorn
There is something aesthetic and satisfying about traversing over the top of a mountain and descending a different route. Whether on...
nzalpineteam
Jan 7, 20166 min read
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