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The Carrington Rouse

Updated: May 2, 2023

The Carrington Rouse (originally known as the Rebuffet Terray) is a classic ice and mixed climb on the Aiguille Des P?lerins in the European Alps. With 550m of technical climbing and a close proximity to the mid-station of the Midi lift it makes for a nice winter day-trip from town if you plan to simul-climb it or a 1-day climb if you pitch the cruxes with a bivy before or after at the mid-station. Dan, Kim, Rose and Peter climbed this in thin conditions in late January 2016. We found it to be fun, sustained and engaging with a crux just below the Col des P?lerins. It starts to the True Right of ‘Beyond Good and Evil’, and runs up a diagonal trending gully systems to a prominent col between the Aiguille Des P?lerins and the Aiguille Du Peigne. What follows is a brief route description (adding to the French language one found on CampToCamp, and a brief english language one found at ChamonixExpo), and a gear list.

The Carrington Rouse Gully

Topo Description:

Approach past ‘Beyond Good and Evil’ to the LHS of a rock buttress. Climb 50 to 100m of ice or rock (threatened from above by Seracs) then diagonally up and right across easier angled snow slopes for ~100m to a rock belay on the RHS of the gully system. Climb the gully system for ~110m untill a lower angle snow slope is reached. There is a belay to the left. Cross this diagonally up and right for ~50m to regain the gully system. Follow the gully system which varies from 75? to 85? for ~300m to reach the Col des P?lerins. We found the going pretty obvious with equipped anchors spaced approximately every 30m. Depending on conditions one can expect up to alpine ice 5 and M4+. Descend by absailing the route.

The Carrington Rouse Crux

Gear List:

Although we climbed this in thin conditions it would be reasonable to expect plenty of ice-screw placements in fatter conditions – although perhaps slightly less engaging climbing. We found plenty of rock placements, and would expect many of these to remain in fatter conditions. If climbing this again and pitching the cruxes I’d bring:

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