Canada Ice Climbing 2020
The New Zealand Alpine Team is spending three weeks ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies around Canmore, Alberta this February. Follow...
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nzalpineteam
Jan 28, 20205 min read
Change is coming
An interesting transition is taking place in New Zealand alpine climbing currently. We are in the process of a generational change. Like...
nzalpineteam
Jan 10, 202012 min read
Pilgrim – including route beta
First published in the NZAC Climber magazine. This article was edited by Tom Hoyle. The text was written by Kim Ladgies and Rose Pearson...
nzalpineteam
Nov 29, 20196 min read
Free Rider El Capitan Trip Report and Beta
In 2018 I was standing around on top of El Capitan with Jon Seddon a fellow Kiwi and my climbing partner for that particular trip. It was...
nzalpineteam
Nov 7, 20192 min read
Climbing Dasler Pinnacles – Hopkins Valley
Ben Mangan, Lionel Clay, James Hobson With the freezing level rapidly rising all over the Southern Alps - it was time to grab the...
nzalpineteam
Oct 7, 20194 min read
Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival: Team Training Week
The interns, the young ones, newbies, bottom of the pecking order… whatever anyone wanted to call us, we were the new kids on the block...
nzalpineteam
Sep 21, 20199 min read
Trailpinism
Mountaineers have long been approaching mountains dressed lightly. Shod in lightweight trail shoes, wearing shorts and a t-shirt, as if...
nzalpineteam
Jul 28, 20195 min read
Muztagh Ata
Muztagh Ata stands at 7545m and is located in far western China, it's often called one of the easiest 7000m peaks because of the lack of...
nzalpineteam
Jul 24, 20195 min read
Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year 2019
The Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year awards are judged over the 12-month period that follows the previous year's Remarkables Ice...
nzalpineteam
Jul 17, 20192 min read
Macpac Nitro Pullover Review
The key to keeping a layering system light for alpine climbing is keeping the ratio of shell weight/insulation low, in other words, the...
nzalpineteam
Jun 27, 20196 min read
Peru 2019 – Cordillera Blanca
Peru and the Cordillera Blanca must have the most easily accessed 6000m peaks in the world. It's possible to be at a base camp for a peak...
nzalpineteam
Jun 16, 20198 min read
King Cobra – Alaskan Big Wall Free Climbing
Another serac rips from the summit ice cliffs of neighbouring Mount Dickey, and the familiar roar of avalanche thunders through the...
nzalpineteam
May 7, 20196 min read
How to Simul Climb
This is a technique that when used right will speed up many alpine and multi pitch ascents. Why speed up your ascent? Personally I think...
nzalpineteam
Apr 29, 20196 min read
Lobuche East – West Pillar New Route
SouthWest Pillar on Lobuche East and Cholatse North Face Nov 2017 Steven Fortune. Daniel Joll, Matt Scholes and Kim Ladiges Lobuche (or...
nzalpineteam
Apr 26, 20193 min read
Walker Spur in Winter – Grandes Jorasses
This is a trip report for an ascent of the Walker spur by Kim Ladiges & Daniel Joll on the 22/3/2019 (first day of spring so not quite a...
nzalpineteam
Apr 23, 20199 min read
A Winter in the French Alps
Spending a whole season in a place as dynamic as Chamonix in the heart of the French Alps is an interesting experience. Observing the...
nzalpineteam
Apr 20, 20194 min read
Gangapurna Expedition 2018, Nepal
September 30, 2018, NZAT members Kim Ladiges and Matthew Scholes flew into Nepal for a 6 week expedition with the primary objective being...
nzalpineteam
Apr 20, 20196 min read
6 Habits for Safer Climbing
A couple of years ago, I sold my business in NZ and more or less became a full time climbing bum. This coincided with becoming a father,...
nzalpineteam
Apr 4, 20194 min read
2019 – 2022 Team Trials
During March 2019 the NZAT held a trial in Queenstown for new members to join our mentoring program. This is something we do every three...
nzalpineteam
Mar 20, 20193 min read
From Fiordland to Yosemite: the best approach shoe for the job - Salewa Mountain Trainer II review
In the saturated and expensive market of high-tech sneakers for climbers, called “approach shoes,” one model has for several years stood...
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