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Climbing Moab’s Classic Desert Towers
After two months of fantastic ice & mixed climbing in the Canadian Rockies, finally the seasons were beginning to signal a change, with...
nzalpineteam
Apr 9, 20173 min read


Arthurs Pass Ice
The words Arthurs Pass and ice are two words most climbers never use in the same sentence. The fact of the matter is, ice routes do exist in the Arthurs Pass area. These routes are often not in the form of semi- transparent blue pillars with easy approaches but instead may be mixed with rock, turf and may be difficult to access. Some climbers often slag off climbing around Arthurs Pass, but the benefits gained from a backyard of Arthurs climbing can quickly silence the staunc
nzalpineteam
Dec 24, 20164 min read


Tears of Papatuanuku (East Face of Mt Talbot)
I'd done several of the classic rock routes up on Moirs and on the back of Barrier Knob over the past summer months but I'm ashamed to...
nzalpineteam
Nov 7, 20164 min read


Alpine training in Australia
While there may be a lacking of high mountains or ice and mixed climbing, with some imagination, there is no shortage of opportunities to train the mind and body for alpine climbing in Australia. I will recount three recent training missions in Australia – an 850m climbing link-up in the Grose Valley, alpine rock climbing in the Warrumbungles, and a 90km run traversing three of the highest and most remote peaks in the Blue Mountains. Pierces Pass Triple In the Grose Valley of
nzalpineteam
Oct 21, 20168 min read


Ozymandias Direct – Mt Buffalo
It all started at the ‘Death Stairs’, a flight of 250 steps above Coogee beach, Sydney. The endorphins were obviously running rampant after those sweaty laps, because when I asked Michael Mate whether he wanted to join me for an ascent of the infamous big wall aid climb Ozymandias at Mt Buffalo, he said yes straight away. A wise decision on his part Time would tell. But I was stoked. Michael was an ideal partner for this climb – not only because he owned a crucial three sets
nzalpineteam
Apr 6, 20168 min read


The Progeny: A First Ascent of the West Ridge of Percy Smith
From what is admittedly a very limited amount of experience, there's one thing about first ascents which stands out to me. Perhaps I do...
nzalpineteam
Jan 18, 20164 min read


Summer Alpine Climbing – Aspiring, Douglas & Aoraki
Late spring and early summer often produce fine snow & ice conditions for mountaineering routes on our great peaks. Since the recent...
nzalpineteam
Jan 13, 20165 min read


Aoraki South Face – Grand Traverse and Tasman Syme-Silberhorn
There is something aesthetic and satisfying about traversing over the top of a mountain and descending a different route. Whether on...
nzalpineteam
Jan 7, 20166 min read


East Ridge Aoraki/Mt Cook
For a climb which the guidebook describes as a classic ice climb, perhaps the finest in New Zealand? There's remarkably little information about the East Ridge of Aoraki/Mt Cook. While there can be something alluring about a little enigma surrounding a climb, there's also something to be said for some beta on such a route, which hopefully encourages more people to get out there and climb such a stunning line. Beyond just the route itself, the East Ridge makes for an awesome o
nzalpineteam
Nov 15, 20154 min read


Rose’s Recovery
One Year – And Recovered It has been exactly one year to the day since my brother and I made that fateful decision to descend from Zits...
nzalpineteam
Dec 10, 201313 min read
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