Trailpinism

Saturday 21 September 2019, 4:04am -- alastair.mcdowell

IMG_20190904_131506678_HDR.jpg

Running shorts and running shorts on a mountain summit?

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Imagine yourself jogging up the Matukituki Valley with a 3kg pack, cresting Bevan Col, donning light crampons on your running shoes across the Bonar Glacier, taking a late morning snack at Colin Todd, scrambling the Northwest ridge of Aspiring, and ripping it all the way back to the car in time for dinner in Wanaka. Welcome to the exciting world of Trailpinism: combining trail running gear, tactics and efficiency with mountain craft for a new way of tackling higher peaks.

Muztagh Ata

Sunday 28 July 2019, 11:25am -- Anonymous (not verified)
Muztagh Ata stands at 7545m and is located in far western China, it’s often called one of the easiest 7000m peaks because of the lack of technical difficulties, but an 18% success rate suggests that it’s not that easy.
 

Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year 2019

Wednesday 24 July 2019, 3:46am -- alastair.mcdowell

Slide1.JPG

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

The Macpac New Zealand Alpinist of the Year awards are judged over the 12-month period that follows the previous year’s Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival. The awards recognise the best alpine climbs during a one year period, taking into account style, difficulty and creativity of the ascent. The award is open to all New Zealand citizens and Expedition Climbers Club members for climbs completed in New Zealand or overseas. This year's awards ceremony will take place in August at the Ice and Mixed Festival in Queenstown, NZ.

Tags: 

Peru 2019 - Cordillera Blanca

Thursday 27 June 2019, 10:23am -- alastair.mcdowell

ishinca.JPG

Meri Simms climbing the summit slopes of Ishinca in Peru's Cordillera Blanca

Creator: 
Matt Scholes

Peru and the Cordillera Blanca must have the most easily accessed 6000m peaks in the world. It’s possible to be at a base camp for a peak the same day you leave town. It’s also a cheap country to travel in and climbing requires no peak fees. The dry winter season also has stable weather giving us a good chance of getting up high.

King Cobra - Alaskan Big Wall Free Climbing

Sunday 16 June 2019, 12:55pm -- alastair.mcdowell

Kim splitter

Kim Ladiges firing up an off-fingers splitter crack on Mount Barrill in Alaska's Ruth Gorge

Creator: 
John Price

Another serac rips from the summit ice cliffs of neighbouring Mount Dickey, and the familiar roar of avalanche thunders through the valley. My calves shake on crumbling footholds, the infamous “Cracker Jack Gravel” of the Ruth Gorge.

I’m balanced on an arete well above my last piece. I reach for a pecker piton and weld it into a thin crack with my free hand, tightening my crimp on the other. I launch into the corner above, loaded with tottering loose flakes.

How to Simul Climb

Tuesday 7 May 2019, 4:38am -- daniel.joll

Steve simul climbing on the West Face of Cerro Torre.JPG

Steve Fortune finishing a simul climbing block on the West Face of Cerro Torre

Creator: 
Daniel Joll

This is a technique that when used right will speed up many alpine and multi pitch ascents.  Why speed up your ascent? Personally I think speed is a key factor to moving safely in the mountains.  If you climb slowly you are more likely to have unplanned bivvies, get stuck in storms or get caught out by rock fall or serac fall. Moving quickly over technical terrain is also good fun!

Starting with the basics: "simul climbing" is when two climbers move at the same time with a rope between them, placing and removing protection as they go.

Walker Spur in Winter - Grandes Jorasses

Friday 26 April 2019, 9:18pm -- Anonymous (not verified)

Walker spur.jpg

Dan Joll nearing the top of the Walker Spur as alpenglow lights up the Grandes Jorasses

Creator: 
K. Ladiges

This is a trip report for an ascent of the Walker spur by Kim Ladiges & Daniel Joll on the 22/3/2019 (first day of spring so not quite a winter ascent but certainly “wintery”).

Conditions

Temperature for 4000m max :  -11C    min :   -17C    light winds.

Major snowfall occurred 5 days previously, strong winds had stripped a fair bit of this snow off the ridge so that it mostly appeared rocky from a distance.

Route

A Winter in the French Alps

Tuesday 23 April 2019, 6:39am -- alastair.mcdowell

DSC02432.JPG

Lionel Clay on the descent of the Grandes Jorasses

Creator: 
A. McDowell

Spending a whole season in a place as dynamic as Chamonix in the heart of the French Alps is an interesting experience. Observing the conditions & season change through the months, and adapting to the most practical way to experience the mountains is a great learning process. From skiing, ice climbing, mountaineering, or rock climbing, all is possible in the Mont Blanc massif and surrounds, and is all a matter of patience. Here Alastair recalls the various trips made over the course of the winter by the NZAT contingent of himself, Daniel Joll, Lionel Clay and Kim Ladiges. 

Gangapurna Expedition 2018, Nepal

Saturday 20 April 2019, 7:30pm -- Matthew Scholes

Kim approaching Gangapurna.jpg

Kim approaching Gangapurna

Kim approaching Gangapurna

Creator: 
Matthew Scholes

September 30, 2018, NZAT members Kim Ladiges and Matthew Scholes flew into Nepal for a 6 week expedition with the primary objective being the south face of Gangapurna, 7455m. Here Matt Scholes recounts his and Kim's journey to attempt this huge 1500 metre face in the Annapurna Massif.

The Manaslu Circuit - Acclimatisation Trek

Pages

Subscribe to alpineteam.co.nz RSS